Maintaining the ski adapters on your bike is critical for keeping your bike running at its best.  The corresponding video, “Lenz Sport skibike adapter maintenance”, will show you what you need to do and how to do it.

We recommend that you service both adapters before each season.  If you ride a lot (more than 30 days per season) you should so this a couple of times throughout the season.  Servicing the adapters includes:

• Removing both adapters
• Inspecting all brass bushings
• Inspecting both bolts/nuts
• Cleaning all brass bushings
• Cleaning both bolts
• Cleaning the knuckle rubbers and knuckles
• Applying grease to all brass bushings
• Applying grease to both bolts
• Applying grease to the top (contact) surface of the knuckle rubbers and knuckles
• Reinstalling both adapters
• Recharge the grease zerks (if applicable)

Tools you will need to service your adapters are:

• 8mm hex wrench
• 15mm socket
• Grease (multi-purpose bicycle grease)
  • We use Finish Line Premium Grease at the shop.  You can also use Park Tool Polylube 1000 or Mountain Flow bike grease
• Smaller hex wrench or screw driver (to help push out the bolts)
• Hammer (to help push out the bolts)
• Grease gun with multi-purpose grease (only if you are charging the grease zerk)

**If you need to replace the bolts, you can purchase them HERE.

**If you need to replace the brass bushings, you can purchase them HERE.

If you are running our Riff Raff or Zig Zag skis, we HIGHLY RECOMMEND that you orient the knucklehead tower (the big block looking thing that attaches the front ski to the fork) so that the angled side is facing forward and the flat side is facing backward. By flipping the knucklehead around, it means that the new “correct” orientation is that the angled side of the knucklehead is facing forward instead of backward.  Why do we recommend this? We have found that due to the aggressive up-sweep of the tip on the front ski, it can be difficult to load the front ski enough to get it to respond appropriately. To compensate for the increased forward center of gravity, turning the knucklehead around will bring the front ski closer by about 1 inch. This will allow your body weight to properly load the front ski without the need to change your riding position. This is more noticeable with lighter riders.

If you flip the knucklehead around and are still having issues with the performance of the front ski, try de-tuning the tip more.  If you feel the need to do this, start with taking the de-tuning further back into the effective edge.  If that still doesn’t help, dull the tip more.  As a last resort, try standing further forward on the foot pegs.

**NOTE:  When you reassemble your knucklehead, you will need to tighten the torque arm bolts.  The correct torque setting for those bolts is 110 in-Lb.  If you do not have a torque wrench, you will want 1-2mm of gap between the two pieces on both the top and bottom, making sure the gap distance is the same.**

Can you flip the knucklehead with our other skis?  It isn’t necessary but it won’t hurt anything.  In other words, if you have a set of Riff Raff and a set of Conniption Styx and you flip the knucklehead for your Riff Raff, it is not necessary that you flip it back around when you run the Conniption Styx.

This is what the flipped knucklehead should look like:

CLICK ON PHOTO TO ENLARGE

Tools needed to flip the knucklehead:

• 5mm hex wrench (long T-handle is ideal)
• Torque wrench (110 in-LB) – recommended
• 8mm hex wrench (optional; if removing the adapter)
• 15mm socket (optional; if removing the adapter)

Since this has so many steps involved and can be lengthy to write out, please watch the corresponding video, “How to install the front retention system”.

Installing the current front ski retention system can be tricky, so we hope that the information in this block and the corresponding video (How to install the front retention system) will help.  Don’t be surprised if you struggle with getting the fork clamps on; it can be challenging depending on what fork you are installing the system on, but if you follow the video it shouldn’t be too bad.  If you are still having issues, contact us.  We have three sizes of fork arm clamps and two sizes of fork arm clamp pads, so it is possible you do not have the correct combination.  If you are replacing an older retention system, that is why we require the information we do when you order…to hopefully get you set up with the correct parts.  However, mistakes are made and things do happen, so there is no guarantee that you will have the correct parts.

Here are all of the parts of a complete retention system:

• Torque arms (arm + back clamp piece) x 2
• Torque arm bolts x 4
• Fork clamp band x 2 (three sizes: small, small modified, big)
• Fork clamp triangle piece x 2
• Fork clamp “top hat” piece x 2
• Fork clamp bolts x 4
• Fork clamp nuts x 4
• Fork clamp pad x 2 (two sizes: thin, thick)
• Knuclehead tower x 1
• Knuckle rubber x 1
• Ski adapter x 1
• Ski adapter bolt x 1
• Ski adapter washer x 2
• Ski adapter bolt x 1

Here is a list of tools you will need:

• 4mm hex wrench
• 5mm hex wrench (long T-handle is ideal)
• ratchet w/5mm hex attachment (optional)
• Cordless drill or driver w/ 4mm hex attachment (optional)
• 8mm hex wrench (if you are installing the ski adapter)
• 15mm socket (if you are installing the ski adapter)
• Medium vice grips, gap set at 7/8″ when closed
• Torque wrench to 110 in-LB (optional)
• Masking tape (may not be necessary)
• Duct or Gaffers tape (may not be necessary)

Changing the coil (spring) on all Lenz skibikes is quite simple.  Our bikes are designed so that you do NOT need to fully remove the shock, nor do you need to fully remove the Secur-Rest strap.  The process is quite simple and quick.  If you have a newer Fox DHX or DHX2 it will take a little bit longer, which will be discussed in detail a little bit further down (an easy way to tell if you have a newer model is when you turn the preload adjuster, if it clicks every 1/8 turn or so, you have a new model.  If it is a smooth turn all the way around, it’s an older model).  Otherwise it should not take more than 10 minutes or so.  If you have the Javelin, the process might be different.

You will need the following tools:

• Phillips screwdriver
• 6mm Allen / Hex wrench
• 13mm socket

Follow these steps (please refer to the photos below for the shock parts diagrams):

FOR FOX DHX/DHX2 MODEL YEAR 2022 AND NEWER:

REFER TO THE PHOTO BELOW DEPICTING THE THREADS FOR THE PRELOAD ADJUSTER TO DETERMINE IF YOUR SHOCK IS A NEWER MODEL

1.  Remove the two screws at the top of the Secur-Rest strap with the Phillips screwdriver; it should hang down and out of the way.  See photo below.  There is no need to cut the strap off or drill out the rivets.
2. Using the 6mm Allen wrench and 13mm socket, remove the lower shock mount bolt.  This is the one located on the swing arm behind the Secur-Rest ramp. See photo below. (Pro tip: If you hold the bolt still with the Hex wrench and loosen the nut with the socket, you will greatly decrease the chances of the hex wrench slipping and stripping out the head.  The same thing goes for tightening the nut.)
3. Completely remove the bolt and washers from the shock/shock mount.  Make note of which side the washers are on as some bikes will only have a washer on the side of the nut.
4. Lift (rotate) the shock up towards the seat to access the preload adjuster.
5. Loosen the preload adjuster by turning it counter clockwise enough so that you can move the coil up to access and remove the spring retainer.  The adjuster should stop every 1/8 turn or so.
6. Remove the lower mounting bushing from the shock by removing the crush spacers and then pushing the long black hollow pin out of the white flange bushing.  (If a white bushing comes out that’s fine, just put it back in to the shock eyelet.)
7. Slide the coil up so you can access the spring retainer and retaining ring (see photo below). Remove the round wire retaining ring that holds the spring retainer to the shaft eyelet, then remove the spring retainer.
8. Once the spring retainer is removed you can remove the coil and put the new one on.
9. Install the spring retainer onto the shock with the protruding section positioned inside of the coil spring. Install the round wire retaining spring into its groove, making sure to seat it fully.
10. Replace the lower mounting bushing by inserting the long black barrel bushing into the white inner mount.  Reinstall the crush washers; the thicker crush washer goes on first, followed by the thinner one with the bumps on it.  The bumps need to be facing outward.
11. Tighten the preload adjuster by turning it clockwise just until the spring no longer moves, then turn the preload adjuster one additional full turn.
12. Reinstall the lower shock mount bolt, washers, and tighten.  Remember, some bikes will only have one washer, which goes on the side of the nut.
13. Complete the process by securing the top of the Secur-Rest strap by screwing in the two top screws.

FOR MARZOCCHI BOMBER, DNM BURNER AND FOX DHX/DHX2 MODEL YEAR 2022 AND OLDER:

1.  Remove the two screws at the top of the Secur-Rest strap with the Phillips screwdriver; it should hang down and out of the way. There is no need to cut the strap off or drill out the rivets.
2. Using the 6mm Allen wrench and 13mm socket, remove the lower shock mount bolt.  This is the one located on the swing arm behind the Secur-Rest ramp. See photo below. (Pro tip: If you hold the bolt still with the Hex wrench and loosen the nut with the socket, you will greatly decrease the chances of the hex wrench slipping and stripping out the head.  The same thing goes for tightening the nut.)
3. Completely remove the bolt and washers from the shock/shock mount.
4. Lift (rotate) the shock up towards the seat to access the preload adjuster.
5. Loosen the preload collar ring by turning it counter clockwise enough so that you can move the coil up enough to remove the spring retainer.
6. Once the spring retainer is removed you can remove the coil, put the new one on, replace the spring retainer and seat the coil on the retainer.
7. Tighten the preload collar ring by turning it clockwise just until the spring no longer moves, then turn the preload collar ring one additional full turn.
8. Reinstall the lower shock mount bolt, washers, and tighten.  Remember, some bikes will only have one washer, which goes on the side of the nut.
9. Complete the process by securing the top of the Secur-Rest strap by screwing in the two top screws.

   

   Lower shock bolt

   

   Fox DHX/ DHX2 year 2021 & newer

   

   New DHX/DHX2 Preload threads

   

   New DHX/DHX2 retaining ring

   

   Marzocchi Bomber CR